Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Pinot Noir, Vinos Baettig

Score: DB97

Gosh. Another incredible and incredibly terroir-defined wine from Francisco Baettig – each time I pull the cork on one of these wines (one of his wines) I am amazed and enthused in equal measure. This is almost shockingly original. Essence of walnut (as if made by a parfumier’s concentrating the flavours almost to the point of caricature), freshly popped popcorn with a gentle melting of beurre au fleur de sel, roasted corn on the cob and assorted freshly plucked and de-hulked red berry fruits – raspberry and wild strawberry, but with some of the additional freshness of redcurrant. There’s a gentle spiciness too and a little touch of smoke – as if one of the corn kernels has caught on the oil in the pan. On the attack this is rich and viscous but very subtly so and it is also very layered with the ultra-fine grained but very evident tannins rolling themselves between the levels. I love this incredible wine that needs to be experienced to be understood (words don’t really capture it very well). Out of interest I tasted this first alongside a famous-name 1er Cru Pommard from the same vintage (well, the same year) – it’s chalk and cheese, Los Primos wins hands down.

The Drinks Business 97