Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Baron Thenard

Score: BH94-97

The Domaine has two plots of Montrachet, lucky people, the one on the Chassagne side being planted in 1945. A fair proportion is sold in bulk to certain regular customers but a few barrels are kept for their own use. There is one new barrel from each of their five tonneliers (plus a couple in older wood) and we had great fun tasting each of the new barrels. There were some taste differences: a touch of coconut from Cadus, sweeter fruit from Séguin Moreau, elegance from Tremeaux, more exotic from Rousseau and perhaps more fascinating was where the fruit sat on the palate: in the middle from Cadus, evenly spread from Rousseau and with a surge to the back from Chassin, which offered the most complete experience of the five. Talking of complete, here is the note on the combined blend, including the older wood: Fresh pale yellow gold colour with a light green inflection. This is followed by a delicious complex and balanced nose, with many layers, a clear sense of distinction, a burst of sunshine fruit at the front of the palate which is then maintained through to an even finish. Balanced and juicy with a long, perfumed aftertaste. Tasted: February 2020.

Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy 94-97